Break-in and Installation Instructions

PROTECT THE INVESTMENT YOU HAVE IN YOUR ENGINE.
TAKE THE TIME TO READ AND FOLLOW THESE RECOMMENDATIONS:
BREAK IN PROCEDURE

1. Drive normally but not a continuous high speeds for the first 500 km's. Occasional quick bursts of speed followed by quick deceleration during this period, is beneficial. AVOID LUGGING!!! TRIPS AND TOWING are not recommended until after 1000 km's.
   NOTE:
   Applying loads to the engine for short periods of time causes increased ring pressure against cylinder walls and helps to seat the rings. This is especially important because you are "BREAKING-IN" the engine with heavy duty oils. The rapid deceleration increases vacuum and gives extra lubrication to the piston and other assemblies.
   
   
2. IMPORTANT! AFTER 500 TO A MAXIMUM OF 1,000 km's OF SERVICE, change oil and filter and readjust the valves, (except hydraulic). We also require that valve adjustments be done again after a total of 6000 km's. We require a maximum of 3000 km's between oil changes and factory recommendation on valve adjustments thereafter.
   NOTE:
   Add oil at 1/2 liter intervals on small capacity engines. OIL AND WATER LEVELS ARE A DRIVER OR OWNER MAINTENANCE RESPONSIBILITY, THEY MUST BE KEPT FULL. We realize that this means extra effort on your part, but it assures long and satisfactory engine performance. 
   
   
3. A heavy duty detergent oil is required. Use a good quality brand oil, Some Manufacturers require 5/30, others recommend 10/40 for 20 degrees Fahrenheit to 100 degrees Fahrenheit and use 20/50w for higher temperatures and heavy duty use.   Do not use synthetic oils on rebuilt engines with under 10,000 km's.
   NOTE:
   In past years, it has been common practice to use non-detergent and straight weight oil during the "BREAK-IN" period because it was felt that the rings would seat quicker without the film strength additives. More recently, there has been a trend to high speed and high temperature engines, cam lobe and tappet loads also have increased to a point where it is important to use heavy duty oils which contain a EP (high pressure) additive right from the start. Rings will seat properly when moderate loads are applied as noted above in section one.
   
   
4. Keep your engine in tune. Tune-up specifications should always be to the manufacturers recommended specifications.
   
   
5. PLEASE! If you experience any trouble or even suspect a problem please contact us IMMEDIATELY! It is easier and more cost effective to fix a smaller problem rather than a large one.

IMPORTANT ITEMS TO LOOK FOR WHEN INSTALLING
A REPLACEMENT ENGINE TO AVOID EARLY ENGINE FAILURE

1. Determine why old engine failed. Check catalytic converter or computer controlled parts, check engine warning light codes, radiator, water pump, etc. Do not install replacement engine with defective components, this could cause premature failure.
   
   
2. Compare rebuilt engine with old engine as to crankshaft flange, pilot hole and bearing, oil pan, timing cover, engine mounting provisions and cylinder head mounting holes.
   
   
3. Prime the oil pump in any acceptable Industry Standard Method! This is very important.
   
   
4. All related parts not furnished by us should be thoroughly cleaned.
   
   
5. If original engine has blown and scattered pieces, such as piston particles, you Must thoroughly inspect intake manifold for foreign material to avoid destroying the new engine.
   
   
6. Make sure that dipstick tube and dipstick are of proper length to register required amount of oil.
   
   
7. Check motor mounts for oil soak and parting of rubber from metal.
   
   
8. Radiator should be flow tested and thoroughly cleaned if necessary.
   
   
9. Check radiator cap for application and operation.
   
   
10. Replace thermostat to avoid possible failure.
    
    
11. All hoses, radiator, heater, and by pass should be replaced if necessary.
    
    
12. A heavy duty detergent oil is required. Use a good quality brand oil, Some Manufacturers require 5/30, others recommend 10/40 for 20 degrees Fahrenheit to 100 degrees Fahrenheit and use 20/50w for higher temperatures and heavy duty use.
    
    
13. Always replace oil filter cartridge and replace with new or remove any cooler lines.  Replace oil cooler if contaminated.
    
    
14. Oil pressure and temperature sending units may need to be replaced because they have a tendency to leak oil and register improper after a reinstall.
    
    
15. Always install new properly gapped spark plugs with proper heat range, and check to make sure the spark plug wires are in good condition.
    
    
16. Check distributor, advance controls and distributor cap for cracks.
    
    
17. Water pump should be checked for signs of leaking.
    
    
18. Clutch fan should be checked for proper operation.
    
    
19. Fan belts should be checked for cracks and other defects.
    
    
20. Check fuel pump for oil leak at pivot pin and also for fuel leaks.
    
    
21. Check heat riser valve for proper operation.
    
    
22. Replace paper air filter or clean oil type.
    
    
23. Check smog components and computer sensors. Replace defective or old parts.
    
    
24. VERY IMPORTANT!!!
    Make sure radiator is full of coolant (at least 50% water and 50% antifreeze) and Engine Block is filled full before attempting to start engine.
    CAUTION: Air Locks can ruin a new engine.
    
    
25. When filling radiator make sure it is filled to proper capacity and that there are no air locks, as this can cause cracking of cylinder block and heads.
    
    
26. Start engine, check oil pressure, adjust ignition timing to manufacturers specifications and adjust carburetor after engine has warmed up fully. Also, at this time be sure to check for any water or oil leaks.
    
    
27. Take the car for a road test. After road testing the vehicle recheck installation, oil and water levels, look for any leaks, recheck timing and adjust carburetor if necessary. Please refer to "BREAK IN PROCEDURE" sheet for further information.
    NOTE: After at least 1 hour running time and after engine has cooled, adjust valves to manufacturers specifications on required engines.  If you are not sure if this is required on your engine PLEASE CALL AND ASK.

ATTENTION: WARNING TO INSTALLING MECHANIC!!!

Every effort has been made to accurately supply the proper item, however it is the responsibility of the installing mechanic to verify engine and parts for correct size and application by comparing the old parts. This is due to the many combinations available on the market today. You are responsible for the correct installation of the engine. The engine life and performance depends on a good professional installation. Follow the instructions carefully. Seek professional help if you are uncertain about ANYTHING!

 Flat Tappet Cam Break-in Procedure

Due to the EPA's mandate for zinc removal from most motor oils, proper flat tappet camshaft break-in procedure is more critical than ever before. This is true for both hydraulic and mechanical flat tappet camshafts. As a point of interest, the most critical time in the life of a flat tappet camshaft is the first 20 minutes of "break-in" during which the bottoms of the tappets "mate-in" with the cam lobes.

There are some oils with additive packages that are better for camshaft "break-in". These include: Shell RotellaT oil; Chevron Delo 400; and Mobil DELVAC oil. These oils are listed as diesel oils, but work great for flat camshaft"break-in". We also recommend the use of Crane Cams # 99003-1 Break-in lube or GM "E.O.S." (Engine Oil Supplement) Assembly Lubricant #1052367. These should be poured over the lifters and camshaft prior to start up.

CAUTION: We do not recommend the use of synthetic oils for "break-in" because they are too slippery. This characteristic reduces the tendency of the lifter to rotate on the camshaft lobe and mate properly. Prior to installing the camshaft and lifters, it is recommended that the crankcase be drained and filled with new, clean oil. The oil filter should also be changed at this time. Proper flat tappet camshaft break-in starts with the cam installation and includes the following steps:

1. Before installing the camshaft and lifters, wash them thoroughly in clean mineral spirits to remove the rust preventative that is placed on the cam before shipping. NOTE: As a "rule of thumb", always thoroughly clean any part before installing it in an engine. Never "assume" that the parts are cleaned before packaging. During shipping, packaging material can rub into the component surface and must be removed!
   
   
2. DO NOT "pump-up" hydraulic lifters before use. This can cause the lifters to hold a valve open during engine cranking, which will cause low compression. The low compression will delay engine start-up and is very detrimental to proper camshaft "break-in".
   
   
3. Lube the bottom of the lifters with the moly paste provided with the cam. Lube the sides of the lifters with oil. Lube the camshaft lobes with the moly paste supplied with the cam.
   
   
4. Install the camshaft, lifters and timing set.
   Lubricate the tips of the pushrods with motor oil before installation.
   
   
5. Set your valve lash or lifter preload. Try to minimize the number of times that you rotate the engine, as this can displace the moly paste from the lobes and lifters.
   
   
6. If possible prime the oiling system. When priming, rotate the engine at least one complete revolution to assure oil gets to all valve train components.
   
   
7. Preset the ignition to start the engine at a fast idle. Keep in mind that with many engines, when the timing chain sprockets have their marks at 6 o'clock on the cam sprocket and 12 o'clock on the crank sprocket that the number 1 cylinder is at TDC at the end of the exhaust stroke. For the ignition to fire the number 1 cylinder on start up, the number 1 cylinder must be at TDC at the end of the COMPRESSION stroke. That frequently requires rolling the engine through 1 additional revolution and putting the timing marks at 12 o'clock on both sprockets. Check your service manual or watch the action of your rockers to determine which stroke you are on. Both valves will be seated at the end of the compression stroke. The exhaust will be just closing at the end of the exhaust stroke.
   
   
8. Fire up the engine and bring the engine to a fast idle between 1500 and 3000 RPM. Do not worry about getting the ignition timing set perfectly at this time. Get the engine running fairly smoothly and vary the engine speed from 1500-3000 RPM in a slow, to moderate,
   acceleration/deceleration cycle. During this time, be sure to check for any leaks and check out any unusual noises. If something doesn't sound right, shut the engine off and check out the source of the noise. Upon restart, resume the high idle speed cycling. Continue the varying "break-in" speed for 20- 30 minutes. This is necessary to provide proper lifter rotation to properly mate each lifter to its lobe.
   
   
9. Let the engine cool, and then drain the crankcase and properly dispose of the oil filter. Refill the crankcase with the proper viscosity and API service index recommended by the engine manufacturer. This should be a mineral oil, not a synthetic oil. At this point the initial "break-in" is complete. You can drive the vehicle in your normal manner. We recommend changing the oil and filter after 500 miles. We strongly recommend mineral oils with flat tappet camshafts to help assure proper lifter rotation.. You might want to put another 5000 miles on the cam before switching to synthetic, if that is your preference.