Cabin air filters are becoming more common in automotive and heavy-duty on and off highway applications.
They are incorporated on more than 85% of all new automobiles.
Many people are unaware they have a cabin air filter in their vehicle.
An estimated 85% of cabin air filters in vehicles today have not had their recommended replacement.
What do Cabin Air Filters do?
They reduce the amount of airborne pullutants and particles entering the interior of a vehicle by capturing dust, pollen, and other airbourne contaminents.
Why should I change my Cabin Air Filter?
Unchanged cabin air filters can impair the health of the driver and their passengers.
It could lead to headaches, nausea, and allergies.
Beyond health concerns, the restricted air flow may decrease performance in heating and air conditioning.
It could also create a bad odor in the vehicle.
Where is my Cabin Air Filter located and how do I change it?
Most cabin air filters are located in a location that makes them moderately easy to access and replace (typically under the hood or in the glove compartment).
Fortin's carries Baldwin and Hastings filters.
(Baldwin specializes on the 1 ton and up applications, while Hastings specializes on 1 ton and below applications.)
Please visit a link below for their vehicle specific installation guides:
Baldwin Cabin Air Filter Installation Guides
Hastings Cabin Air Filter Installation Guides
How often should my Cabin Air Filter be changed?
They should be changed every year or every 19,000 to 24,000km.
Importance of Engine Oil
- Seperates and lubricates moving parts
(Such as the pistons so they can easily slide in their cylinders)
- Reduce engine wear
- Help prevent deposits from forming on internal engine components.
- Cools engine parts by carrying heat away from the moving parts
- Enhance engine fuel economy
- Removes and suspends dirt and contaminants in the oil
(until these contaminants can be removed at the next oil change)
Where does this dirt come from?
Dirt is created during the normal combustion process.
What is Engine Oil?
Engine oil is comprised of two basic components - Base oils and additives.
Additives are known as the Performance Additives Package.
For more information on these additives please refer to Pennzoil's website
What Oil does my vehicle take?
How much Oil do I need?
Our in house electronic catalogue includes a tool that lets our counterstaff lookup your vehicle my year, make, and model and see a wide range of lubricant information.
Including: ATF, Diff Fluid, Transfer Case Lube specs, as well as your engine oil capacity and viscosity specs.
To lookup your oil at your home or work please try Shell's Lubematch to lookup your vehicle's recommended oil type and volume needed.
What do the numbers mean?
The rating system was developted by SAE (Society of Automotive Engineers) to classify oil by viscosity (the "thickness" or consistency of the oil).
You may have heard of SAE 10W-30 oil.
The W stands for winter. So 10 is its cold temperature viscosity rating.
30 is the high-temperature viscosity rating.
The combination provides an oil that flows well at low temperatures, but still protects the engine at high temperatures.
To compare 10W-30 to 5W30 and 0W-30.
5W-30 and 0W-30 flow better at even lower temperatures while still providing protection at high temperatures.
What is the difference between the different types of Engine Oils?
Synthetic motor oil is a laboratory synthesis of precisely controlled ingredients created by oil engineers, scientists and chemists. When combined with a high-performance additive package, this results in an oil with the highest levels of lubrication and engine protection, generally offering better protection at startup, better cleansing qualities, enhanced durability and better protection against heat buildup.
Synthetic blend motor oils use a mixture of synthetic and conventional base oils for added resistance to oxidation (compared to conventional oil) and to provide excellent low-temperature properties and are recommended for cars, trucks, vans and SUVs that regularly carry heavy loads, tow trailers and/or operate frequently at high RPMs.
High-mileage motor oil is specially blended for older vehicles, or vehicles with higher mileage. Typically, 120,000 kilometers is the figure used regarding high mileage oil. Some high mileage, high-performance cars, however, will be better served by continuing to use a synthetic motor oil. That said, a special high mileage motor oil blend, with its unique additives and viscosity, helps reduce oil burn-off, helps in sealing oil leaks and helps improve combustion chamber sealing to help restore engine compression. It all adds up to enhanced performance in older engines.
Conventional motor oil is what its name implies—it uses base oils enhanced in the blending process with chemical additives to help meet the manufacturer's desired levels of heat tolerance, breakdown resistance and viscosity (viscosity simply being a technical term for the thickness and fluidity of the oil). Conventional motor oil can be had in a range of viscosity grades and quality levels, from adequate to an extensively designed, high-quality lubricant. Conventional motor oil is recommended for drivers with low-mileage, late-model cars whose driving habits can be described as routine—commuting, running errands, vacation driving at relaxed cruising speeds. Today more and more engines require synthetic oil, so be sure to check your owner’s manual to make sure you don’t invite avoidable engine problems or void your warranty.
Spark plugs have two primary functions:
- To ignite the air/fuel mixture
- To remove heat from the combustion chamber
For more information on spark plugs please visit NGK's Tech Info Page
NGK, the brand Fortins stocks, has a great Spark Plug FAQ with great images.
Please refer to their website for the following questions and answers:
Q: How often should I replace my spark plugs?
Q: How do I choose the right spark plug?
Q: How do I "read" a spark plug?
Q: How much of a performance improvement can I expect from changing plugs?
Q: What is a "fouled" spark plug?
Q: Do I need to set the "gap" when installing a new set of plugs?
Q: Are special plugs always necessary on a modified engine?
Q: How do I install spark plugs correctly?
Q: When should I use a resistor spark plug?
Q: Why are there different heat ranges?
Q: What do the numbers and letters in a part number represent?
Q: Does humidity affect spark plug temperature?
Q: Does ignition timing affect a spark plug's temperature?
Q: Does compression ratio affect firing end temperature?
Q: Can old spark plugs be cleaned?
Q: What is the maximum I can open or close the gap?
Q: What is pre-ignition?
Q: What is detonation?
Fortin's does have the ability to test batteries, alternators, and starters on site.
We also have the proper battery chargers at our locations.
Here are some maintenance battery tips provided from our Canada Proof battery company Canadian Energy:
There are several things that could cause a battery to appear as though it is no longer delivering the amperage it was designed for:
Corroded Terminals - will cause a poor connection between the post and cable and could result in poor charging from the vehicle alternator or simply no current delivered to the vehicle electrical system. This can be overcome by cleaning the post with a wire brush and neutralizing the corrosion with a mixture of baking soda and hot water.
Loose Connection - can be a result of not properly loosening the battery clamp when changing the battery, not properly tightening the battery clamp or over tightening and stretching the battery clamp. This can be overcome by properly tightening the battery clamp or replacing the cable.
Seasonal batteries often get put away for the off season in a discharged state, this will result in the battery testing very poor when it is needed for the next season or very low voltage and an inability for it to start the vehicle.
Seasonal batteries should be charged prior to storage for the off season, and the main positive or negative cable disconnected so no parasite draws can discharge the battery, it is also a good idea to charge the battery during the off season or leave it on a maintenance charger when not in use.
Batteries that are allowed to sit discharged during the winter stand a good chance of freezing, this could result in the plates being damaged or the battery case splitting open and electrolyte leaking out.
This can be prevented by charging batteries prior to putting them away for the winter and checking and charging them periodically during the off season for state of charge, vehicles with high parasitic draw should have the batteries disconnected or left continuously on a maintenance charger to avoid discharging.
Fortin's counterstaff can lookup your vehicle on our e-catalogue to ensure you have the correct bulb.
Be it a tail light, brake light, headlight, side marker, or any other bulb.
Does your signal light blink twice as fast as normal?
This means you have a signal light burned out.
An easy way to check is to park your car, turn your hazard lights on, and walk around it to discover which light is burned out.
Want to increase your visibility with brighter bulbs?
We have different bulbs in stock if you are looking to upgrade above the stock bulbs.
Do your Plastic Headlight Covers Require Restoration?
If they are yellow, clouded, or scratched a restoration kit may help you.
We stock kits that can shine and restore plastic lenses - including headlights, tail lights, fog lights, and directional lights.
The kits are designed with enough product to restore two headlight lenses.
Is your Vehicle Trim Faded?
Fortin's stocks a black trim formulated to match the OEM finish on automotive trim components.
Some of the features are:
- Excellent adhesion and durability
- No primer required
- Matches OEM appearance
- Retains flexibility
- Great coverage
- Professional results
For use on:
- Stainless Steel
For technical data sheets and more information please visit the SEM's product page for this item.
Fortin's on Airport Road in Chilliwack and Fortin's on South Fraser Way in Abbotsford both have paint mixing booths.
We can use your vehicle's paint code to mix paint to match the colour on your car.
Also, to make the job easier we have the ability to make custom colour aerosol cans!
Fortin's carries three premium manufacturer's wiper blades:
When you come into one of our stores please ask our counterstaff to lookup your vehicle by year, make, and model.
We can then help you find a blade that suits your needs.
FAQ on Wiper Blades
1. How often should I change my wiper blades?
About every 6 months.
Useage, weather conditions, road debris, chemicals, and ozone exposure affect the lifespan of the rubber.
Signs you need new wiper blades:
Rubber Worn down from Abrassives (such as ice and snow)
Hardened Rubber from direct sunlight and extreme temperature changes when wipers are idle. Rubber with little to no flexibility causes chatter and skippers across windshields.
2. Can I change only the driver's side wiper blade?
It is reported 90% of driving decisions are based solely on visual clues.
To keep your passengers and yourself safe, it is recommended to change both sides' wipers to ensure you have the clearest windshield and safest view while driving.
3. What is the difference between a Beam Blade and a Convetional Blade?
Beam Blades use the latest technology for all season performance.
On a conventional blade (seen below) snow and ice can adhere to the metal bridge. This negatively affects the performance of the conventional blade as it prevents the rubber from pressing against the windshield uniformly.
The enclosed tension in the beam blade keeps it flexible and pressed against the windshield with infinite pressure points even in the winter.
Conventional Blades has a standard vented bridge and have been used on vehicles for decades.
4. If I have Conventional Blades on my car now, can I switch to Beam Blades?
Yes, you can upgrade your car to the newer beam blade technology.
Fortin's counterstaff can lookup your vehicle and help you find the correct blades.
5. Is there anything I can do to make my wiper blades last longer?
- Clean your windshielf everytime you fill up with gas.
- Wipe off the rubber element with a damp paper towel to clear away any dirt or debris.
- Use an ice scraper or defroster, not your wiper blades, to de-ice your windshielf.
- To prevent wiper blades from sticking to the windshielf and ice build up during the winter, pull them away from your windshielf.
6. How do I install my wiper blades?
All of the wiper blades have instructions on or within the packing.
For additional instructions please click one of the links below: